After the Fire: A Trip Report from Grand Canyon’s North Rim

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In June of 2006, the Warm Fire was started by a lightning strike on Grand Canyon’s North Rim.  By the time it was contained about a month later, 60,000 acres on the North Rim had burned.  The fire resulted in the evacuation of tourists and employees, and closed the park for about 1 week.  GrandCanyon.com associate Ron W. recently visited the North Rim with his wife and young daughter.  I had a chance to chat with him this morning about his visit:

Alley Kaye: How long were you at the park? 

Ron W: Just for a day.  We picked up picnic supplies in Page, then headed up via Bitter Springs and Marble Canyon.  It was my wife’s first visit to that area in a really long time and she was particularly impressed by the Vermillion Cliffs. 

AK: Where did you go in the park?

RW: Our first stop was Point Imperial.  Then we went to the Visitors’ Center and the Grand Canyon Lodge.  We walked to Bright Angel Point from the Lodge, which is an easy quarter mile walk.  There’s some “up and down” parts, but it’s a nice paved trail.  We also went to Cape Royal. 

AK: How was the weather?

RW: Beautiful – intermittent rain, it was kind of “misty” the whole day.  The rain smelled so good in the pine trees; made you want to keep your windows rolled down.  (Editor’s note: at 8,000’ above sea level, Grand Canyon’s North Rim runs about 10 degrees cooler than the South Rim)

AK: Did you see the area affected by the fire? 

RW: It’s actually quite a ways outside the Grand Canyon National Park boundary, about 25 miles North of the entrance.  You start seeing it about 5 miles South of Jacob Lake.  It wasn’t as bad as I thought, but it was still eerie.  You drive through and all of a sudden see what a vast area of what looks like huge black toothpicks.  Trees weren’t burned down to the stumps, but the branches were completely burned off.  The burn area itself was kind of “patchy:” you’d see places where one side of the road would be charred trees as far as the eye could see, then the other side would be unaffected, though the fire did jump the highway in some places.  Some of the trees were scorched but not killed.  As for the park, it didn’t even get touched.  You can tell that there’s been some fires inside the park in the past, but this fire didn’t get in that far.

AK: Did the fact that there’d been a fire recently have a negative impact on your Grand Canyon experience? 

RW: Not at all. It actually enhanced the trip visually with the contrast of the burned area against the living trees.  It’s a very educational opportunity to witness the power of Nature.  I’ll bet that come autumn, it will be really interesting to see the juxtaposition of the charred black area up against all that color.  (Editor’s Note: the North Rim supports plant life that the drier South Rim cannot, which means in addition to conifer [pine] trees, the North Rim also has birches, aspens and oak trees.  During the second and third week of September, these trees put on a radiant display of color.  An amazing photo op!)

AK: Was it still a bit shocking to see all that devastation? 

RW: I’m definitely sad that it happened because I am a deer hunter and a lot of their habitat was destroyed.  All the back roads into the forest are closed off, too.  People from Page like to camp up there and a lot of that area is going to be off-limits for awhile.  (Editor’s Note: hunting is prohibited within Grand Canyon National Park.  The area Ron refers to is outside the park.)

AK: So, you didn’t see any wildlife up there?

RW: Quite the opposite, we saw tons of deer, including lots of big bucks with antlers in velvet.  We saw a wild turkey with some chicks, and we finally saw our first Kaibab Squirrel, which was cool.  (Editor’s Note: Grand Canyon North Rim also features wildlife that you won’t find anywhere else.  The Kaibab Squirrel, with its distinct gray coat and tufted ears, is unique to the North Rim.) 

AK: What kinds of activities are going on there that visitors might like to take part in? 

RW: The Visitor Center is nice, it’s located next to bathrooms at the main parking lot at Grand Canyon Lodge.  The rangers are very helpful and knowledgeable about history, geology and biology.  They have the Junior Ranger program there, plus there’s a Ranger Walk 8.30 every morning.  There’s also a ranger talk about three or four times a day next to the fireplace outside the Grand Canyon Lodge.  They talk about a variety of topics such as Grand Canyon geology, question and answer sessions, etc.  These are all free. 

AK: Even though you’ve been to the Grand Canyon many times, did you learn anything new on this trip? 

RW: Definitely!  The main thing I learned was that there are a lot more hiking trails than I previously thought.  In fact, while I was there I got a permit to hike the Widforss Trail which I’m excited about.  It’s about 10 miles long and goes along the canyon rim, then into the forest, then re-emerges at Widforss Point.  You can camp along the trail, though there are no facilities like toilets or water.  Not a lot of folks know about this trail either, so getting permits is relatively easy.  I also got a better feel for the diversity of the plant life there from the Cape Royal walk.    There are plaques along the trail from the parking lot that explain the various species of plants, their significance to the ecosystem and the ways Native Americans used the plants.  I also learned that Cape Royal is an example of what’s called a “microclimate:” even though it’s at the same altitude as the rest of the North Rim, because of the warm updrafts from down in the canyon, and lack of natural obstruction, the prevailing landscape is more desert-ish: pinion forest, creosote bushes, etc.  They also had a lot of warnings posted about lightning what with it being monsoon season and all.  Did you know that one in every 10 trees along the canyon rim has been struck by lightning?  I didn’t!  (Editor’s Note: “monsoon season” refers to a phenomenon in the Southwest where late afternoon thunderstorms roll in from the Gulf of Mexico.  These storms can produce heavy rain and lots of lightning, but are typically brief.)  

Views to admire, views that inspire…

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One of my favorite painters ever to wield a brush is Canyon, Maxfield ParrishMaxfield Parrish.  You may say you don’t know who he is, but I’ll bet you do: his various renderings of lithe young ladies bathed in opalescent auras, usually wearing nothing but loosely draped togas have sold hundreds of thousands of greeting cards around the world.  Indeed, it was a greeting card with ”Daybreak“ on the cover that first introduced me to his work and I’ve been fascinated ever since.  Maxfield Parrish’s heyday was the 1920’s.  The ”art deco” architectural vibe is definitely there, like in “Egypt.” In other paintings, the ladies have that distinct “flapper” hairdo.  He not only did fine art pieces, but did many magazine covers and advertisements.   His technique had a luminous quality to it that to this day, I don’t think has been replicated.  So finely tuned was his own sense of color, a shade of blue was actually named after him back in the day.  In all fairness, he did paint men, children, animals, women over 30 (ha ha ha), etc., but his favorite subject through it all was young women (although…sometimes it was hard to tell) loosely dressed in quasi-Grecian fashion.. if they were dressed at all.  Mid-career, Parrish made a stylistic shift.  In the early ’30’s, he declared himself “done with girls on rocks,” and decided to concentrate on landscapes, and it was actually this part of his work that I came to appreciate most.  One look at ”Winter Nights 2″ and you’ll feel snow crunching beneath your feet. Parrish painted a variety of locations, like the midwest, the Northeast, etc.  The beauty of the Southwest was not lost on him, either.  Did he actually spend time here?  Hang out in the Phoenix area or maybe hike the Grand Canyon?  I don’t know, but judging by the light and color of works like “Arizona” and “Canyon,” you’d have to believe that he did bear witness to an Arizona sunrise, just like the one I saw yesterday morning as a line of thunderstorms had moved across the state during the night, through Flagstaff, the Navajo reservation and on into the Four Corners area.  By 5:00 AM, most of the system had pushed through, but this one small cell had straggled behind.  I remember thinking, this little cloud ain’t going down quietly!  It rained and thundered and lightning shot out of it every which way.  But all around this little cloud was clear sky.  Coming up over the hill just before you get to the Glen Canyon Dam, the view was amazing.  Makes me hope that a painter, photographer, a sculptor or some kind of artist was watching.  It would be a shame not to have a view like that captured forever.  I’m glad that at least it was in my memory.   Til next time…. Happy Travels! 

When East Meets West Revisted: Grand Canyon Time

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Ah, 6 AM… great time to blog. Good morning travellers, what’s going on?  For those of you already on your Grand Canyon vacation, hope you’re having a wonderful time.  For those of you who’ll soon be on your Grand Canyon vacation, hope you’re getting excited! 

OK, those guys on that show “What Not to Wear” would probably have a field day with this, but I actually have t-shirts in my possession that are like, 20 years old, some even older.  Go ahead, laugh it up…. But hey, some of these babies have been to the bottom of the Grand Canyon for pete’s sake.  We’re talking sentimental value, here!  The other day I came across one that was so telling about Grand Canyon life that I had to share it with y’all. 

Flash back to 1988, I was working at the Bright Angel Transportation Desk at Grand Canyon South Rim.  Located inside the famed Bright Angel Lodge, one of Xanterra Parks & Resorts’ properties inside the park, our job was to check in Grand Canyon mule riders, folks hiking down to Phantom Ranch (the lodge at the bottom of the canyon), book people on Grand Canyon air tours, and to help people plan visits in other areas of Northern Arizona.  In other words, we answered a LOT of questions. 

At the “BAT Desk” (as we called ourselves), our days started early.  5 AM to be precise.  That was when we were “technically” supposed to do our opening routine: gather up our paperwork (PC’s had yet to become de rigeur in our neck of the woods), count our cash, y’know, get ready for the day.  “In principle,” this was done in private, with the curtain in front of the desk rolled down, away from prying eyes. 

Note I said, “in principle.”  In reality, what we usually ended up doing at that time was placating a group of about a dozen people who’d been standing in line since 4 AM, hoping, praying, begging, even resorting to bribing, to get a coveted cancellation on a mule ride or a bunk space at Phantom Ranch.  My duty was to tell them, sorry, gotta wait till 6 AM, when it was time to pull up the curtain and call the waiting lists. 

7 AM, time to call the hikers’ shuttle to the Kaibab Trailhead.  Round up the folks out on the rim taking pictures (hey, it’s easy to get distracted with a view like that).  8 AM, last call for the mule ride.  During all this hub-bub, we’d typically be dealing with a whole other throng of folks hoping to book a Grand Canyon air tour or bus tour or some alternative to the mule ride they weren’t able to get on.  Then another group over here hoping, praying, begging, bribing for a cancellation on the NEXT day’s mule ride… 

So by the time the typical American workday rolled round, the ”BAT Desk” crew had already logged a hectic half day on the job!  So one day, we all chipped in and got these t-shirts made with the ”bat” symbol from the Batman Show and beneath it, this caption: “The BAT Desk: We Do More by 9:00 Than Most People Do All Day!”

When I talk with folks from “back East,” two things shock them the most.  As my colleague Leah referred to in a previous post, the distances between things is probably the main one.  The other?  How differently we as Southwesterners relate to time.  ”Out East” I know you folks think nothing of having dinner at 8pm, 10pm, later.  For me that’s unthinkable.  Why?  It’s past my bedtime, that’s why! 

I’m typically up at 4 in the morning, sometimes earlier.  For me, getting up at 6 is sleeping in.  I’ve personally always been a morning person, and I guess that was one of many reasons I took to living in the Southwest.  In this part of the world, we tend to rise early.  The weather certainly has a lot to do with that, especially at this time of year when mid-day highs run in the 90’s, 100’s and higher.  

Many activities in the area start early, too, like our Canyon River Adventure and the Colorado River Day Float Trip – how early is early?  6 AM.  You think that’s early?  That’s nothing!  Our Las Vegas Grand Voyager Tours have been known to start as early as 3.30 AM.   Yeah.  THU-REE… THIR-TEE …. AYY…. EMM….  That’s shuttle pickup time, the tour starts at like 5 AM.  Yeah.  5….. in the morning…..

But you know what?  Look at it this way: would you rather be at the bottom of the canyon when it’s A. 85 degrees or B. 115?  Not only will it be somewhat bearable at the bottom of the canyon at that time of day, but B. If you’re from New Jersey, 3.30 AM is really 6.30 AM, which is just about what time you’d be getting up anyway… right?  So, when I come out and see y’all in YOUR part of the country and we’re out having dinner at what in Arizona would be some crazy hour of the night, in reality, it’ll be a decent hour on MY internal clock.  ….I think…..   

In Arizona, time is something we laugh about.  See, Arizona doesn’t do Daylight Savings Time, which means that when the rest of the country “springs forward,” we stay put.  One of my co-workers at the BAT Desk even went as far as to place a placard by the clock in the lobby saying “THE RIGHT TIME.” 

‘Cause when we SHOULD be on the same time as Colorado, we’re actually on the same time as Nevada.  Then again there’s the exception: the Navajo Nation, which DOES observe Daylight… then on the Hopi Reservation, which is smack dab in the middle of the Navajo Reservation, they don’t, so, you can theoretically drive across Arizona and change time zones 5 different times.  Going into Utah on your trip?  You’ll cross time zones again.  

Are you thoroughly confused yet?  No need to be.  A good rule of thumb?  “When in doubt, check it out.”  So on your Grand Canyon vacation, be ready to get an early start to your days.  I know it’ll be hard rolling some of your family out of bed (not to mention you).  I’ll bet though that once you’ve seen a sunrise in this part of the country – not just at Grand Canyon, but also at places like Monument Valley, Lake Powell, Zion, Bryce – even the most hardcore of you late sleepers will be hard pressed NOT to become  morning people.    

The Grand Canyon has that sort of effect on people.  It has a way of changing people down to their very core.  Don’t be surprised if it has some sort of profound effect on you.  

Till next time – Happy Travels! 

Alley Kaye, GrandCanyon.com

“I’ve Seen Fire & I’ve Seen Rain:” Grand Canyon fire season proves challenging

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The Southwest is a place where the forces of nature are facts of life.  Especially at this time of year when one kind of weather extreme segues into another.  The last two months have been a bit of a roller coaster ride in Northern Arizona as forest fires raged in some of our state’s greatest scenic treasures: Sedona, Navajo Mountain and Grand Canyon’s North Rim

The blazes forced the closure of popular attractions like Slide Rock State Park, the Coconino National Forest, and the North Rim itself.  The smoke from the Warm Fire and the Navajo Mountain Fire drifted into places like Lake Powell, Glen Canyon, Marble Canyon and Bitter Springs, making life unpleasant for folks with asthma and other problems over there. 

It was a scary time, and our thoughts were with the people who had to leave their homes, animals and/or businesses and take refuge in shelters while crews tried to hold back the flames.   Our thanks go out to those brave men and women who were ”on the line,” on land and in the air.

Those of us who live here were not surprised by these events.  The Southwest is in the midst of a drought.  It’s the desert, hel-LOO?!  Forest Service and other outdoor professionals had long predicted a potentially devastating fire season.  Their predictions were dead on.  But, frightening as it is, we must remember that fire is a natural and normal process in the wilderness.  It is Nature’s way of “cleaning the floor” of dry grasses, shrubs, trees that are not thriving, etc.  For some conifer trees, fire is vital to the continuation of the species.     

The Warm Fire was illustrative of the process of a “natural” fire.  It began with a lightning strike on June 8th, and in keeping with National Park Service policy of letting Nature take its course, was allowed to burn in a “managed” fashion, under the scrutiny of Forest Service, Park Service, etc..  Then, the winds kicked up – another “fact of life” in this neck of the woods - and the fire grew 17,000 in the course of a night.  

Hot shot crews went at it HARD.  The park closed and tourists and workers were trapped for a few days.  Then, Nature stepped in again, as Northern Arizona’s “monsoon season” arrived – and a few days early to boot.  The higher humidity and welcome rainfall helped the firefighters get the fires contained and get the parks back open.  Yay!!!

Although we’re ecstatic about the arrival of wetter times, we just want to remind you folks that this type of weather poses its own set of challenges, namely, the danger of flash floods.  Flash floods occur for a variety of reasons, mainly because the composition of desert sand is such that water is not absorbed very fast.  When water has no place to go, it either stays put or runs downhill.  Combine that with narrow spaces (as exist in slot canyons, box canyons, river washes, etc.) and you have a very dangerous combination. 

This was tragically illustrated in 1997 when a flash flood in Antelope Canyon (near Page/Lake Powell) claimed the lives of 11 people.  Be VERY careful at this time of year when hiking in slot canyons in particular.  These formations, such as Antelope Canyon, were formed by this very process, and the majority of the “sculpting” occurs at this time of year. 

Try to schedule your slot canyon explorations for the morning hours, when statistically, fewer flash floods occur.  Don’t be fooled by seemingly fair conditions.  Flash floods have been known to occur when hikers couldn’t see a cloud in the sky.  Other places to be careful: in ravines, box canyons, river beds and dry washes.  If caught in one of these, GET TO HIGHER GROUND.  If your tour guide or other local representative tells you to get out of the canyon or stay out – do as they say.  If you come across a flooded roadway DON’T try to drive or walk across it.  Keep your car radio tuned to local radio stations for weather advisories, too. 

Remember too that these “monsoon” storms, though intense, are typically brief.  Sometimes all you have to do is wait it out.  And good things do come to those who wait: rain is usually followed by a rainbow.